Dun Ringill

NG 562171

visited 26/7/2016

 



Directions – an easy walk along a clearly defined coastal path.  There is a large layby marked P on the map at NG545172.  From this point it is an easy walk, turning right at the minor road at Kilmarie, down towards Kilmarie house, crossing the river at the bridge just before the house, from here a clearly defined coastal path which leads very close to the Dun.  Bracken and nettles may obscure the site in summer.  It is possible for the more adventurous to cross the river via stepping stones, nearer to the sea.

 


Looking at the OS map, one of the first things that strikes me is the number of Duns/brochs along this coastline.  While we cannot know exactly when they were built, it is reasonable to assume they were built and still all in reasonable condition towards the end of the first century AD.  Must have been an impressive sight.

Plan from Canmore

When I tried to find out a bit more about Dun Ringill, google just wanted to tell me about Jethro Tull. Their song, Dun Ringill was written in 1979 by group member Ian Anderson who owned the Strathaird Estate from 1978 to 1994 when it was purchased by  the John Muir Trust.

In the wee hours I'll meet you
Down by Dun Ringill
Oh, and we'll watch the old gods play

 

RCHMS classify this site as a Dun, (1928) Mackie suggests it is a semi broch (1965). Harding suggested it was a circular broch – part of which had fallen over the cliff. (https://canmore.org.uk/site/11431/skye-dun-ringill).  By my own personal classification, I have decided it is a dun, but with architectural aspects in common with a broch.. so"semi-broch" is maybe an acceptable description  - although this term is no longer fashionable. I would guess (in the absence of any firm data to prove me wrong) that this structure is earlier than most "true" brochs but later than the promontory forts where a slightly curved wall was built across the neck of the promontory (e.g Rubh an Dunain or nearby Dun Grugaig) .  Maybe they were experimenting with the concept of galleries, cavity walls and intra mural cells within an almost circular structure.  On the other hand it could simply be the location that dictated the form of the structure.

There are no records of excavation but the site has been re-used in later times which complicates its definition.  There is evidence of medieval/post medieval mortar in some of the lower levels.

According to Mary Miers, quoted on canmore, the structure was  “ refashioned c.14th century as the first residence of the Mackinnon chiefs in Skye (later abandoned for Kyleakin); remains of two medieval lime-mortared buildings in the curtilage. This was one of the six 'castells' on the island listed by Dean Monro in the mid-16th century.” (https://canmore.org.uk/site/11431/skye-dun-ringill )

 One of the most fascinating aspects is the remains of a cell within the South wall.  A curved and corbelled section is visible.  This was apparently part of a large cell, the outer wall having fallen over the cliff.

Curved wall of possible  intra mural cell

Entrance

The original walls remain but the lintels and walling above the original entrance have been removed (and probably recycled in constructing the newer, inner tower).  The combined entrance became quite long and awkward, with a slope which seems to bring you out into the middle of the new construction.

Curved wall seen from further back

The best photos and some of the wording has been blatantly copied from Su's personal blog http://stayathome2010.blogspot.co.uk/2016/07/terrific-tuesday.html

Dun Grugaig , Skye Part 2

Dun Grugaig , Skye
26/7/16

I fancied looking at Dun Grugaig because:

 -  - It was said to have some similarities with the promontory fort at Rubh an Dunain – our last trip

- - We had already visited one of the two Dun Grugaigs on the mainland.  We visited the Dun Grugaig near Glenelg on 17th May but there is another Dun Grugaig near Dornie that we have yet to visit.

- -  I thought it was time to venture down to the south of the island.

Hence with minimal preparation I set the destination as Dun Grugaig. 

As the date grew nearer and I had had limited time for research, I began to regret my choice.

Euan Mackie, (https://canmore.org.uk/site/11442/skye-dun-Grugaig) describes the site as “a dangerous site to visit because sea erosion has narrowed the neck of the promontory and the clefts in it – next to the path – can be concealed by bushes.”

I had already extracted the directions from the excellent little book “In search of prehistoric Skye” by Ian Donaldson-Blyth (available from Portree Library).  Donaldons-Blyth says “care is needed when exploring this dun since the cliffs on which it stands are high and the edges unguarded and in some cases hidden by the vegetation.  This is no place for young children or excitable dogs”… that seemed OK – no young children and the only dog likely to accompany us is always on a lead and not excitable…but maybe a warning was required.  However, experience has shown me that his directions are now out of date.  So, with the aid of google, I found more up-to-date directions.

Finding description of chest high bracken, brambles and birch scrub obscuring the cliff edge I was seriously doubting my choice of field trip – especially as the weather forecast wasn’t too promising either.

My final decision (one which other members of the group had come to themselves after their own research so we all agreed) was to give it a go – and if the vegetation and/or weather beat us we would give up and do Dun Ringill instead.

We deviated slightly and successfully from the various directions given.  A suitable parking place (not a passing place and not obscuring the traffic!!) was found just beyond No 3 Glasnakille.  We ignored the stile mentioned in Les Hamilton’s otherwise useful description at http://www.themodernantiquarian.com/site/5136/dun_grugaig.html

 

A few metres north of No 3 and of the stile there is a fence.  With this fence on our right, we bravely entered the jungle of brambles, birch scrub and bracken on a steep and muddy slope.      In reality, only the first few metres were difficult and this is the stage which is nowhere near the cliff so there is no danger beyond being caught by brambles or losing one’s dignity by slipping into the muddy slope.  

 Soon a faint path appeared beneath the extremely high bracken.  We stayed close to the fence (to facilitate retreat) and much sooner than we expected the Dun was visible in all its glory – but there was a gully between us and the Dun… a very short retreat took us to a route directly leading to the entrance.

There may not be a lot of this Dun left but when it suddenly becomes visible after the short fight through the “jungle”, it presents a glorious view.  We were transported back almost 3,000 years in time.

This one definitely requires a re-visit when vegetation is lower to get better photographs but I hope I can edit this blog later and include photos better than mine.

Far better than any photos, Kathy Lindsley of Ravens Press Gallery in Colbost, really did the Dun justice with her engraving:
http://s3.spanglefish.com/s/4088/pictures/dun%20grugaig%20strath194.jpg

Inside the entrance there is a curious triangular shaped ledge – the shape of the stone above does not give the impression that stones are missing – it really looks like it was planned as a ledge..for a lamp?  Sadly the photo does not show this clearly

Archaeology notes:

http://canmore.org.uk/collection/1468997

Canmore shows the 1921 plan:

Mackie describes this as an unexcavated semi broch or galleried dun.  He says “ There is a clearly defined chamber above the passage roof which communicates with the interior; its right face is traceable all the way forward as far as the massive front lintel.” But we, in our ignorance, were unsure of identifying this chamber

The scarcement he mentions is clearly visible.  As Mackie says this is unusually around 2ft below the level of the passage lintel making access to any higher level difficult.  Also unusual is the fact the remains of a stairway go in an anti clockwise direction – apparently only otherwise seen at Clickhimmin in Shetland.  Several other architectural similarities to Clickhimmin lead Mackie to suggest that this is an early structure within the broch type class, possibly dating to 6^th or 7^th century BC.

Dun Grugaig, Skye Part 1

Our next trip could be an adventurous one - from what I have read it is not the easiest place to reach -- maybe bring along your pruners to cut back brambles!!  We shall see....

I have never been there, so it will be an adventure -- showing below the start of my research.  This picture is from http://www.scotlandsplaces.gov.uk/record/rcahms/11442/skye-dun-grugaig/rcahms?item=1470393#carousel

 
I am intrigued by the triangular lintel - several brochs (and similar structures) had these... just a fashion?  or something more?

It certainly looks an interesting and atmospheric location...

more to follow......
Grugaig part 2