Markings on the ground

Our recent walk to Dun Sleadale gave us rather a good view across Sleadale Burn to the lumps and bumps of what was (probably) once Talisker village.  I'd taken a rather unhelpful printout from the aerial version of Google Maps with the various nearby records from Canmore marked on it, but these were nowhere near ... and once you start to look, the place is covered in lines and outcrops and who-knows-what.



At the time, I assumed that the reason I couldn't spot anything I'd drawn on my plan, but could see lots of other things, was because I'd messed up the locations.  Importing data (e.g. from Canmore) and building layers on a Google map is reasonably easy - the map above shows all the archaeological sites on Skye that are recorded by RACMS ... but it's also very easy to shift a whole layer sideways with a twitch of a mouse's whisker.

So, when I got back, I rechecked ... and no, I hadn't got it wrong.  I hadn't been able to spot what I was supposed to be able to see, and I saw lots of other things instead.

This one - a line running more or less dead straight south-eastwards (ish), and aligned close to the east side of the broch, reminded me that I'd seen a comment somewhere on this blog about brochs being located at the junction of various lines.  Spot the lines, and where they meet ... there will be a broch ... and if it's not on the map, then maybe it's just not been discovered yet.



So - I went back to google maps and their aerial view.  Wow, the area is just covered in lines and squiggles and signs of occupation ... and the more you see, the more you can convince yourself are significant and not just accidental exposed seams or gullies in the rock.

Sadly, just when I thought I might be on the track of a Really Important Discovery, Steve T - who has recently spent a lot of time studying territories and boundaries between communities - ruined it all by pointing out the obvious: that boundaries (in the days before cheap 'n' cheerful wire fences) would have run between obvious and immovable landmarks, and thus not need to be marked at all on open ground.  You don't get much more obvious or immovable than a broch - with the added bonus that, in a dispute, nobody could say 'Oh, that broch ... no, I'm sure we agreed this one - hard lines, it's my land and I'm not giving it back'. 

It was a really interesting exercise, though, and one I'll repeat before we go on our next walk - then, maybe, we can work out whether what is obvious to an eye in the sky is borne out by boots in the bog.

Dun Grugaig , Skye Part 2

Dun Grugaig , Skye
26/7/16

I fancied looking at Dun Grugaig because:

 -  - It was said to have some similarities with the promontory fort at Rubh an Dunain – our last trip

- - We had already visited one of the two Dun Grugaigs on the mainland.  We visited the Dun Grugaig near Glenelg on 17th May but there is another Dun Grugaig near Dornie that we have yet to visit.

- -  I thought it was time to venture down to the south of the island.

Hence with minimal preparation I set the destination as Dun Grugaig. 

As the date grew nearer and I had had limited time for research, I began to regret my choice.

Euan Mackie, (https://canmore.org.uk/site/11442/skye-dun-Grugaig) describes the site as “a dangerous site to visit because sea erosion has narrowed the neck of the promontory and the clefts in it – next to the path – can be concealed by bushes.”

I had already extracted the directions from the excellent little book “In search of prehistoric Skye” by Ian Donaldson-Blyth (available from Portree Library).  Donaldons-Blyth says “care is needed when exploring this dun since the cliffs on which it stands are high and the edges unguarded and in some cases hidden by the vegetation.  This is no place for young children or excitable dogs”… that seemed OK – no young children and the only dog likely to accompany us is always on a lead and not excitable…but maybe a warning was required.  However, experience has shown me that his directions are now out of date.  So, with the aid of google, I found more up-to-date directions.

Finding description of chest high bracken, brambles and birch scrub obscuring the cliff edge I was seriously doubting my choice of field trip – especially as the weather forecast wasn’t too promising either.

My final decision (one which other members of the group had come to themselves after their own research so we all agreed) was to give it a go – and if the vegetation and/or weather beat us we would give up and do Dun Ringill instead.

We deviated slightly and successfully from the various directions given.  A suitable parking place (not a passing place and not obscuring the traffic!!) was found just beyond No 3 Glasnakille.  We ignored the stile mentioned in Les Hamilton’s otherwise useful description at http://www.themodernantiquarian.com/site/5136/dun_grugaig.html

 

A few metres north of No 3 and of the stile there is a fence.  With this fence on our right, we bravely entered the jungle of brambles, birch scrub and bracken on a steep and muddy slope.      In reality, only the first few metres were difficult and this is the stage which is nowhere near the cliff so there is no danger beyond being caught by brambles or losing one’s dignity by slipping into the muddy slope.  

 Soon a faint path appeared beneath the extremely high bracken.  We stayed close to the fence (to facilitate retreat) and much sooner than we expected the Dun was visible in all its glory – but there was a gully between us and the Dun… a very short retreat took us to a route directly leading to the entrance.

There may not be a lot of this Dun left but when it suddenly becomes visible after the short fight through the “jungle”, it presents a glorious view.  We were transported back almost 3,000 years in time.

This one definitely requires a re-visit when vegetation is lower to get better photographs but I hope I can edit this blog later and include photos better than mine.

Far better than any photos, Kathy Lindsley of Ravens Press Gallery in Colbost, really did the Dun justice with her engraving:
http://s3.spanglefish.com/s/4088/pictures/dun%20grugaig%20strath194.jpg

Inside the entrance there is a curious triangular shaped ledge – the shape of the stone above does not give the impression that stones are missing – it really looks like it was planned as a ledge..for a lamp?  Sadly the photo does not show this clearly

Archaeology notes:

http://canmore.org.uk/collection/1468997

Canmore shows the 1921 plan:

Mackie describes this as an unexcavated semi broch or galleried dun.  He says “ There is a clearly defined chamber above the passage roof which communicates with the interior; its right face is traceable all the way forward as far as the massive front lintel.” But we, in our ignorance, were unsure of identifying this chamber

The scarcement he mentions is clearly visible.  As Mackie says this is unusually around 2ft below the level of the passage lintel making access to any higher level difficult.  Also unusual is the fact the remains of a stairway go in an anti clockwise direction – apparently only otherwise seen at Clickhimmin in Shetland.  Several other architectural similarities to Clickhimmin lead Mackie to suggest that this is an early structure within the broch type class, possibly dating to 6^th or 7^th century BC.

Dun Grugaig, Skye Part 1

Our next trip could be an adventurous one - from what I have read it is not the easiest place to reach -- maybe bring along your pruners to cut back brambles!!  We shall see....

I have never been there, so it will be an adventure -- showing below the start of my research.  This picture is from http://www.scotlandsplaces.gov.uk/record/rcahms/11442/skye-dun-grugaig/rcahms?item=1470393#carousel

 
I am intrigued by the triangular lintel - several brochs (and similar structures) had these... just a fashion?  or something more?

It certainly looks an interesting and atmospheric location...

more to follow......
Grugaig part 2